Moab, Utah

After leaving Huntsville, AL, we drove out to New Mexico to do a little climbing at Cochiti Mesa. Upon our arrival we found the access road gated off, so we asked the owners of Dixon's Apple Orchard near by about access. The road was closed for the remainder of the winter and the only way in was to hike across their property. This was the where we were reintroduced to the friendly, kind, and open hearted nature of people in the west. They gave directions and March 12th we walked in, got a little lost, but eventually found the rock. The landscape was beautiful, but the rock was not up to par so we decided to continue on into Utah.

the view from the hike to Cochiti Mesa

We arrived in Castle Valley at the climbers camp the evening of March 12th. Despite getting in late, we awoke early and hiked up to Castleton Tower to climb the Kor Ingals Route (5.9+). With a good heaping of chimney climbing, solid sandstone, and an amazing summit, this one is a classic and a great introduction back into desert towers. Our second day, we headed back up the approach trail to Castleton Tower and climbed the North Face with an alternate 5.11c first pitch. This route offered stunningly beautiful views, excellent cracks and phenomenal climbing. Another desert classic. Day three it was off to Sister Superior, but lacking a four wheel drive with high clearance we teamed up with our friends from camp, Joe and Michelle. Jah Man (10+) had it all, including a gorgeous 100 foot "thin" hands pitch (perfect hands for Sue) and a nice 10 foot diameter summit, 400' up. The entertainment was not over, however, when we got back to the truck. As we drove out about 100 yards from the main road, we were blocked in. Where the road crossed the wash one last time the embankment was steep and about 15 feet tall. Here we got to watch a Lexis SUV with 'All Wheel Drive' trying to get out. The kid was standing off to the side, the wife was waving her hands and "directing". The husband who had probably said "don't worry honey, we can drive down that" was getting the car more and more stuck. On one attempt he made it half way up, the AWD tires spinning and the car rocking on just two tires. After multiple tries and plenty of scratches to the bumpers, as the river bed was as narrow as the car was long, the wife kicked that stubborn mule out of the drivers seat, backed up into the opposite bank, slammed on the gas, and made it to the top in a huge cloud of dust. Meanwhile we were sitting back, snacking on chips and salsa, laughing our heads off, and video recording the whole thing. Alas it was time to put the truck in 4 low and drive on out.

Castleton Tower

Sue on pitch 2 of the North Face of Castleton Tower

Sue chimeying on Jah Man
Summit Shot, Sister Superior

Aside from one pitch at Wall Street on Potash Road and some easy hiking in Arches National Park, we spent the next couple days resting. In the afternoon on March 17th, we met up again with our friends Joe and Michelle, and headed out towards Canyonlands. We spent the night just outside the park. The morning of the 18th, we woke up before the sun and headed to the canyon bottom with Joe and Michelle in their truck. We planned to climb Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+), a classic seven pitch route on Moses tower in two teams of two. To kick off the route, Graham had to lead through an extremely difficult 5.11+ "boulder" move right off the ground. The rest of the route continued with long, sustained 5.10 crack climbing with full exposure to the hot desert sun. The fifth pitch (the Ear pitch) was a formidable challenge with 5.11 moves up a wide offwidth. We reached the summit tired and thirsty, but very satisfied.

Moses, stout 5.11+ boulder move

Moses, summit shot

We spent some time studying the feasibility of an alternate approach to Washer Woman/ Monster Towers which included a few rappels and, a number of GPS points, some orienteering, and then some jugging and climbing back out. Before departing from our attempted approach Graham decided to do a first ascent of a nice looking, slightly overhanging off fingers dihedral. At least it looked nice from the ground. The sandstone turned out a bit softer than expected. There was a nice short 5.11+ section in the middle, otherwise the term vertical mud comes to mind. The crack temporarily ended on a face where every hold either broke off or deteriorated from hands and feet and so the choice was between a big fall on a bad piece, or try to go further. Graham went further, pleasantly surprised to find a #1 Metolius placement on the face, and even more pleasantly surprised when it held a lead fall. Poor Sue was being constantly rained on with Graham's hand/ foot holds as they broke off. Long story short, the top was gained, lessons learned, as much sand digested as the average person eats in 5 years, and a little exercise to boot.

Graham on the First (and probably last) ascent of "Washout"

On March 23rd, while doing some laundry, we had the great fortune of meeting a man by the name of Tom. We got into a nice long conversation, and towards the end, Tom offered to let us borrow his 14 foot polyethylene dory for an enjoyable ride down the Colorado river. Again we were astounded by the friendly, kind and open-hearted nature of the folks in the west. The following morning, we met Tom and put in at Rocky Rapids. We started heading downstream. It was wonderful. As we rounded a bend in the river, we could hear that another rapid was ahead. When we caught site of the rapid, it was a little too late for us to steer to the side in order to pass through the calmer section. So, we headed right down the middle of the rapid, unavoidably heading straight for a hole. One moment we were looking into the hole and the next we were in the water underneath the overturned dory. Perhaps it was the cold temperature of the water (between 56-58 degrees) or perhaps it was from swallowing some water, but Sue was temporarily unable to breathe. Finally Sue's breath returned and we were struggling to hold on to the overturned dory and the oars. Graham tried a few times to right the dory, but without success. We eventually had to abandon ship and to swim for the shore. When we got out of the water, we were very hypothermic. Sue flagged down a passing car on the road. A Moab sheriff just happened to be passing by and stopped to provide assistance. He called an ambulance (which we are not sure was entirely necessary) and called search and rescue to recover the dory. When we arrived at the hospital, the effects of hypothermia had worn off and we were feeling better, except for some pretty bad bangs and bruises on Graham's elbow. Medical service was refused and we left to find Tom and the boat. The aftermath of the whole event has made for some headaches, such as a full day of driving to for Graham to get new orthopedic foot beds, along with all the bureaucracy of the whole event. Tom, a stranger just a couple days ago, has amazed us with his unwavering support, incredible kindness, generosity, and ability to make the best of the situation.

Tom, Graham and "CanTankerous"

In past travels what has bared the heaviest weight upon experiences and reflections is the people we've met. That statement holds as true as ever in regards to the past couple weeks.

March 24th, 2007

Huntsville, Alabama

Somehow we managed to fit all of our sailing gear, climbing gear, kitchenware, clothing etc... in, or on top of, the car. Once we arrived down south, we fit right in with all the hillbillies. Items strapped on the car included a bike, cat box, cooler, and a jacket coated in cat piss flapping in the wind. We learned it takes a cat about 4 to 5 hours of constant meowing to lose its voice. It has been nice to see family on the way down, and to spend time with family here in Alabama. While here in Alabama we headed up to Tennessee Wall for 3 days of sandstone splitters in sunny 70 degree weather. The climbing there is best explained as some strange crossbreed of Indian Creek and the Gunks (no complaints). We are now headed west for a little rock climbing, rest, and relaxation. We look forward to living simply and in touch with our natural rhythms, which for us includes plenty of time in the vertical world.
Mar. 10, 2007