Climbing in Cerro Quemado

Our second journey to inland Guatemala brought us to Cerro Quemado (meaning "Burnt Hill"), an outcropping of volcanic rock located just outside Guatemala's second largest city, Quetzaltenango (aka Xela). We were eager to do some rock climbing, since we had not done any climbing for five months, since climbing in the gym in Miami. The climbs at Cerro Quemado vary in length from 50 to 150 feet and vary in difficulty from 5.8 to 5.13, with most routes being in the 5.11 range. Most of the routes are fairly steep and technical sport climbs. It was wonderful to move over stone again, and we were pleasantly surprised by how natural it felt.

Cerro Quemado

climbing at last

Cerro Quemado is the most unique and strange place we have ever climbed, or have ever visited for that matter. Hundreds of fundamentalist evangelical pilgrims arrive each day from all over Guatemala and even from other countries in Central America to pray, to soak in the spiritual aura of the mountainous, rocky peak, and to speak directly to their god. Graham refers to their experience as "spiritual brainwashing." The vast majority of Central Americans consider themselves either Catholic, Evangelical, or one of the numerous indigenous American religions. However we have noticed the lack of definite borders between these religious denominations and have observed a vast spectrum of different religions resulting from the fusion of western Christianity, Mayan tradition and local beliefs.

While at Cerro Quemado, we observed Mayans in traditional dress carrying colorful bouquets of flowers and more modernly dressed mestizos lugging five foot tall speakers on their backs up the steep trail in order to blast various Christian songs while they sang and prayed. From before dawn until after dusk, the air was filled with the sounds of people chanting, moaning, wailing, and screaming in a disharmonious mix, combined with singing and upbeat, almost mariachi-sounding disco music. The voices and music came from around thirty or forty small outcroppings throughout the mountaintop, as different groups prayed in separate locations in either Spanish or one of the twenty different Mayan languages found in Guatemala. Moving from one area to another, one might hear five to ten of these different groups at any given moment. There was virtually no stop to these sounds, which resonated through the mountainside. It varied from day to day; although, typically it was only quiet from about 2am to 5am. One morning, however, we were awoken at 3am to the screaming voices of our neighbors, who were camping under a palapa (an open thatched or sometimes tin-roofed shade structure). One of our neighbors was performing an exorcism on his friend.

arriving at Cerro Quemado

mucha musica

chanting

jamming in prayer

All of those who we met and with whom we spoke were incredible friendly and kind. Their time praying and being in the beauty of this mystical landscape, with clouds rolling down its jagged peaks and spilling into the valley below, gave these people a sense of elation and happiness which was contagious amongst themselves and to us. Knowing the importance and sanctity of this place to these people, along with our witness of the enormous amount of trash thrown everywhere by these people, confirms that this culture lacks even the slightest environmental awareness. For example, they would leave beautiful flower arrangements, as an offering to their god, in cut-off non-biodegradable 2 liter Pepsi bottles. During the four days and three nights we stayed at Cerro Quemado, we were entertained by the behaviors and customs of these people and in turn we served as entertainment for them. It was not uncommon while we were climbing to turn around and see a small group of onlookers gathering at the base of our climb, watching us. Looking down at groups further away, we noted that we were often distracting them from their prayers. On one occassion, we asked a small group of Guatemalans if they would like to try climbing. Two of them accepted, a young highschool aged boy and an evangelical pastor in his early thirties, dressed in his Sunday best. The pastor was a natural, while the young teen appearing equally fit, struggled on the opening moves. With little interest beyond getting high on the cliff face, the teen climbed up the rope until his fear got the better of him. They were very appreciative of the opportunity, and as we go our separate ways, both us and them walk a little more culturally aware than before.

The summit marker that appeared during our stay. Was this intended for us? Or just for Americans in general?

March 2008

The Cays and Reefs of Belize

Fishermen outside of Belize City

Dolphins swimming beside Chandrika under sail

It was due time for deeper exploration into Belize's islands and surrounding coral reefs. Our first stop after leaving Placencia was Lark Cay. While rowing to a coral reef next to a nearby island, we were called ashore by the locals who lived there. This unnamed island held a population of 3 and 1/2. The island was apparently owned by an American, who had hired Clayton to work the land, clearing and filling with plans to develop it into a tourist retreat. Accompanying Clayton was his 17 year old pregnant (hence the half person) wife, Shamra, and their little 1-1/2 year old daughter, Kilanie. They invited us over for a delicious lunch of rice, beans and fried fish, the typical local cuisine. It was pleasant to receive such open hospitality by the locals rather than being seen as either a source of income or a nuisance, the common view of foreign tourists.

A half days sail north was Crawl Cay where we met up with our friend, Doug, on Serendipity, who we had met in Placencia. Doug introduced us to the art and practice of spearfishing. Sue caught us dinner and was hooked on the sport. Graham with his catch of Grouper

We were tracking our way north with plans to renew our visas in Dangriga (having been in Belize for almost 30 days) on our way to Belize City to meet up with Graham's mom, Chrissy, and his Uncle Chuck (aka Uncle Fun). Dangriga, however, was found to be an open roadstead, meaning that its coastline was exposed to the prevailing winds and built up seas. A dangerous row ashore combined with strong easterly trades and an expiring visa, left us with no other choice than to continue sailing to Belize City.

A few days later on January 23rd, we picked up Chrissy and Chuck at the airport in Belize City. Chrissy and Chuck were to be our first overnight guests. Their new experience with life at sea would begin gently with a short and easy motor ride to Robinson Island, where we spent the night at a calm anchorage. The following morning, we sailed with pleasant 10-15 knot NE winds under full canvas (with all sails up) to Colson Cay. We spent the afternoon and the whole next day snorkelling, spearfishing, spending time together, and playing lots of bridge.

The rhythm of cruising is generally slow and highly reflective of the wind, waves and weather. Some people make plans more than others on a boat, as on land, but on a boat sticking to plans is ignorant and sometimes dangerous. Learning to pay attention to the elements and dance with them and not even saying "We'll go to Tobacco Cay tomorrow," was an attitude very contradictory to the American land-based life that Chrissy and Chuck were used to. We had been on the boat for a few days and had worked our way south to Tobacco Cay. Chrissy and Chuck had adapted well to the boat but were ready to step ashore and stretch out the legs.

Chrissy and Chuck adapting to "Boat Life"

Tobacco Cay sits on the barrier reef yielding beautiful views of crashing waves, transitioning the seas from 10 feet to 2 feet or less. We enjoyed good eats and snorkeling here and prepared for our return trip to Belize City. Our trip was filled with laughs and good times and good conversation. It was nice to share this lifestyle with family. We also enjoyed educating them and making them a little saltier. The love for family is a void which can never be filled and as we travel the seas, these visits are priceless.

Dropping sail at sunset

January 2008