Fishermen outside of Belize City
Dolphins swimming beside Chandrika under sail
It was due time for deeper exploration into Belize's islands and surrounding coral reefs. Our first stop after leaving Placencia was Lark Cay. While rowing to a coral reef next to a nearby island, we were called ashore by the locals who lived there. This unnamed island held a population of 3 and 1/2. The island was apparently owned by an American, who had hired Clayton to work the land, clearing and filling with plans to develop it into a tourist retreat. Accompanying Clayton was his 17 year old pregnant (hence the half person) wife, Shamra, and their little 1-1/2 year old daughter, Kilanie. They invited us over for a delicious lunch of rice, beans and fried fish, the typical local cuisine. It was pleasant to receive such open hospitality by the locals rather than being seen as either a source of income or a nuisance, the common view of foreign tourists.
A half days sail north was Crawl Cay where we met up with our friend, Doug, on Serendipity, who we had met in Placencia. Doug introduced us to the art and practice of spearfishing. Sue caught us dinner and was hooked on the sport.
Graham with his catch of Grouper
We were tracking our way north with plans to renew our visas in Dangriga (having been in Belize for almost 30 days) on our way to Belize City to meet up with Graham's mom, Chrissy, and his Uncle Chuck (aka Uncle Fun). Dangriga, however, was found to be an open roadstead, meaning that its coastline was exposed to the prevailing winds and built up seas. A dangerous row ashore combined with strong easterly trades and an expiring visa, left us with no other choice than to continue sailing to Belize City.
A few days later on January 23rd, we picked up Chrissy and Chuck at the airport in Belize City. Chrissy and Chuck were to be our first overnight guests. Their new experience with life at sea would begin gently with a short and easy motor ride to Robinson Island, where we spent the night at a calm anchorage. The following morning, we sailed with pleasant 10-15 knot NE winds under full canvas (with all sails up) to Colson Cay. We spent the afternoon and the whole next day snorkelling, spearfishing, spending time together, and playing lots of bridge.
The rhythm of cruising is generally slow and highly reflective of the wind, waves and weather. Some people make plans more than others on a boat, as on land, but on a boat sticking to plans is ignorant and sometimes dangerous. Learning to pay attention to the elements and dance with them and not even saying "We'll go to Tobacco Cay tomorrow," was an attitude very contradictory to the American land-based life that Chrissy and Chuck were used to. We had been on the boat for a few days and had worked our way south to Tobacco Cay. Chrissy and Chuck had adapted well to the boat but were ready to step ashore and stretch out the legs.
Chrissy and Chuck adapting to "Boat Life"
Tobacco Cay sits on the barrier reef yielding beautiful views of crashing waves, transitioning the seas from 10 feet to 2 feet or less. We enjoyed good eats and snorkeling here and prepared for our return trip to Belize City. Our trip was filled with laughs and good times and good conversation. It was nice to share this lifestyle with family. We also enjoyed educating them and making them a little saltier. The love for family is a void which can never be filled and as we travel the seas, these visits are priceless.
Dropping sail at sunset
January 2008
